Notes on display and cleaning of un-glazed dye prints

Un-glazed dye prints give the best view of the image and scene. With no reflections from glass, one can more readily "look into" the scene. At the same time, of course, not being behind glass or acrylic makes the images more susceptible to damage. Furthermore, the dyes themselves, while the best of their kind, are not as robust as today's best pigments. Think of them more like we used to think of color prints.

With respect to display, avoid putting these prints in direct sunlight. The closer they are to a window, the faster they will deteriorate.

For better protection of the image, one can go to a framer and have glass plus a spacer put into the frame. The optically coated, non-reflective glass (Like "Tru-View") may be among the better glazing solutions if reflections are a problem, which is normal in most lighting situations.

For cleaning the dye print surface, using a photographic lens "blower" is the first thing to do. I do not recommend the "canned air" approaches because they too often cause condensation on the print surface. That can leave a lasting stain. If air will not remove the dust, a soft, clean cloth is the next thing to try. Soft cotton and microfiber are the best. If the cotton leaves some lint, use the blower to remove that. No not use a damp cloth. Although the print has an acrylic spray on it, it is not waterproof.

If the print experiences pre-mature fading or color shifting (it will naturally warm with age), I will replace the print with my latest dye printing technology at cost. The dye setup I am using in 2014 may be twice as lightfast as the 2013 approach. If the image is one that you want to have as a collectible that will last many generations, carbon pigments are the best answer.